Sunday, October 9, 2011

churidar stitching


HOW TO STITCH A CHURIDAR


This is the new churidar I stitched. This is a normal churidar but I've cut the churidar into two parts and again joined them. Now measure from the beginning of the shoulder till 13th inch. Cut at the 13th inch horizontally so that you get two different parts, the breast part and the part below breast. [Take a look at the older churidar & salwar post to have a complete idea]

Just take the breast part , now im gonna sitich darts so that cup shape is formed to fit the breast exactly. Now stitch a small dart on the armhole and the main dartstraight to the shoulder. Stitch darts on both sides of the front piece, you can also stitch darts on the back piece. A small dart straight to the shoulder is enough. When you stitch darts on the front piece don’t bring the darts closer so that you don’t get a cone shape.Stitch darts of length 2 inch so that you get a u shape.

Next join the shoulders, stitch the sleeve and then stitch the neck. It will be fine if you give cross piece to neck. After you finish the breast part join it with the bottom part. Fold and stitch the bottoms and sides.

This is the salwar matching to the above one. I’ve stitched a normal salwar with some gatherings so that the hip part is comfortable.


STITCH SALWAR



This is a chudithar pant or salwar that we are gonna learn to stitch. Stitching a pant is easy.
Now let us see the stitching pattern for a chudithar pant(salwar). I have given the readymade measurement. You can try with your ownmeasurement using a sample pant and a inch tape.



MEASUREMENT
  • full length = 100 cm
  • hip = 100 cm
  • bottom = 38 cm
  • a-b = full length = full length - bottom piece = 100 - 4 = 96 cm
  • a -c = (hip/4)-5 = 20 cm
  • b-g = hip/6 = 100/6 = 16.6 cm
  • e-h = (width of cloth/2)-2 = (90/2)-2 = 43 cm
  • h-i = (hip/3)+5 = 20 cm
  • a-f & c-d = (hip/4)-8 = (100/4)-8 = 33 cm
Using the above measurement draw the stitching pattern. Next take the cloth to be stitched. First fold the cloth breadthwise next lengthwise as shown below.



First you have to cut the c-b part , verify the the stitching pattern diagram above. Next keep the stitching pattern and mark the edges of the stitching pattern using marking chalk. Then carefully cut the cloth without disturbing it.
Next fold and stitch the bottom part and then you can join the edges along the side till the end . Do this to both the leg pieces as shown in the figure. Stitch and join the two legs . Keep some gatherings along the waist as shown in the figure. Keep some gatherings so that the c-h part is equal to c-d part , verify the stitching pattern diagram above.



Next cut the a-c part . In the a-c part stitch a small loop for the thread to pass inside the pant , which is usefull to tie the pant. Now attach the c-b part to the a-c part ,verify the stitching pattern above. Stitch them properly so that both diameter becomes equal.


After you stitch them , the complete salwar is ready.

HOW TO CUT AND SEW CHURIDAR



Now let us see how to stitch a churidar like the above. Stitching a chudithar top is easy . Accurate measurements , some practice will help you to stitch anything well.


The above is the stitching pattern for the churidar , I've given the readymade measurement for the above .

READYMADE MEASUREMENT

* full length = 105 cm
* Narrow waist = 39 cm
* Bust level = 25.5 cm
* shoulder = 38 cm
* chest = 92 cm
* Waist = 72 cm
* Hip = 100 cm
* sleve legth = 25 cm

measurements according to the diagram

* 1-2 = full length + 3 cm = 108 cm
* 1-6 = arm hole = (chest/4)-2.5 = (92/4)-2.5 = 20.5 cm
* 6-7 = chest loose = (chest/4)+2.5 = 25.5 cm
* 1-10 = narrow waist = 39 cm
* 2-11 = bottom = (chest/4)+10=33 cm
* 1-3 = neck breadth = chest/12 = 7.6 cm
* 1-5 = front neck = chest/8 = 11.5 cm
* u can keep the same length for back neck else back neck = chest/12 = 7.6 cm
* 3-8 = shoulder = shoulder/2=38/2 = 19 cm

Now using the below pics you can have an idea how to stitch a churidar top. Using the stitching pattern i've drawn the pattern on a chart. If your gonna stitch in your measurement , take your churidar and measure it with a inch tape and draw the stitching pattern.

First take the cloth, fold it breadthwise first , next fold it lengthwise . After that you can place the stitching pattern and mark the edges using marking chalk. The material i've used has a lining material too so first im gonna cut the lining material then the outer material. Beginers never cut both materials together.



After cutting the lining material , next im gonna cut the outer material. Be carefull that you dont disturb the cloth. Then cut the outer material.

Next join the front pieces and back pieces by stitching them throughout the edges. Next you will have seperate front and back piece. Next stitch the neck part using crosspiece or lining using extra cloth. Next stitch the shoulders of both piece together.

Next cut the sleeve part, here i have used 3/4th sleeve and have taken only the outer part so that it will be transparent. Stitch the sleeves to thearmhole. Next join the left and right sides of churidar. Fold and stitch the openings below hip.


After the sleeves are attached the final outcome , the churidar is ready.